What's the very first thing to check?
The shutoff arm or switch on the ice maker itself — it's easy to bump accidentally, especially when loading groceries into a crowded freezer, and it simply pauses ice production until it's manually switched back. This sounds obvious, but it's a genuinely common cause we get called out for.
What if the switch is on and it's still not making ice?
Next, check whether the water line supplying the ice maker has frozen — this happens when the freezer runs colder than normal or the line has a partial kink, and it fully blocks water from ever reaching the ice maker mold. A hair dryer on low, held a safe distance from a disconnected line, can clear a simple ice blockage.
What if the line isn't frozen?
That shifts suspicion to the water inlet valve, which can fail from age or from mineral scale buildup — a known issue given North Texas's moderately hard water supply. A scaled or failed valve can't open properly to let water reach the ice maker, and it's a $130–$220 repair.
Could it be the ice maker module itself?
Less commonly, yes — the ice maker's own motor or thermostat can fail after years of use, which is a $150–$260 repair. This is usually the last thing we check, since valve and line issues are both more common and cheaper to rule out first.
Call (469) 886-1122 and we'll work through the checklist same day.